Exploring Tonga: A Sailing Odyssey from Nuku'alofa to PangI on the island of Lifuka 

The Tongan sun, slowly rising to meet the endless blue of the sky, it felt like a warm glow upon Nuku'alofa. Getting ready to depart, TinTin our trusty 44-foot ketch with the gentle hum of the diesel engine becoming a comfortable rhythm in the first hours of light, we embarked on a voyage to the middle kingdom.

Our destination: To Visit our World's newest Island enroute to the beautiful islands of the Ha'apai Group in central Tonga. To be honest this side trip made no great sense but how often do you get to see a new island formed by an explosion, with a force greater than the biggest nuclear bomb detonated in the USA. At the time of writing the volcanic eruption that took place in 2022 is the biggest to take place in the 21st century. 

The tsunami that resulted even reached Japan. The damage in Tonga was considerable, many people lost lives, and the Tongan economy and environment has suffered a great deal. Hunga Tonga and its twin Hunga Ha'apai are now just a small rock formation in the middle of the ocean, approximately 30 nm northwest of Nuku'alofa.

We had the perfect Easterly wind and flat seas as we motored out of the small boat Harbour. Raising the main and releasing the Genoa I made a course for a Western pass in the reef. We did pass many small fishing boats out fishing on the numerous reefs, some using hand lines, and others spearfishing.

The sail to Hunga Tonga took 4 hours. I felt in awe as I sailed past a very insignificant rock formation in the middle of the ocean. We did not sail too close as I did not have charts for this new island that rises 2000m from the seafloor to just break the surface. We all took some photos and then changed course for the Ha'apai group.

I had chosen an island called Ha'afeva island, it was nestled within the jewel-toned waters of Ha'apai group, a cluster of islands in the heart of the Tongan archipelago. This wasn't just a sailing trip; it was a journey to experience a little Tongan culture.

Our crew was still unchanged from New Zealand, a diverse group united by a love for the sea and sailing, a mix of novices and those a little more crusty from the constant spray of the ocean. Esther looked full of energy and alive now we were sailing on flat seas kissed by the warm glow of the Tongan Sun. Then there was Justine and her boyfriend Pierre, French Engineers traveling and living life as best they could. Trev, the captain, I try to embody the spirit of the sea. All aboard excited with the anticipation of sailing with whales and exploring the underwater wonders of Tonga.

It would be another 14 hrs before we arrived at Ha'afeva Island, if my planning was accurate and the wind stayed we should arrive off the coast at 0600 hrs and navigate through the reef, find an anchorage in time for breakfast, then swim on the warm clear waters.  As the sun rose to fill the clear blue skies TinTin sliced through the turquoise waters, and the Tongan landscape unfolded before us like a living postcard. Lush, volcanic islands dotted the horizon. The occasional poorly charted reef erupted in a geyser of spray, a reminder of the raw power and dangers slumbering beneath the ocean's surface. The air hung heavy with the intoxicating scent of salt and exotic flora, an irresistible invitation to our next adventure.

Ha'afeva Island

Dropping the sails and slowly picking our course through the reefs surrounding Ha'afeva Island we finally dropped the anchor in a beautiful clear blue bay just West of the damaged ferry wharf, it was 6m deep with good holding in a sand patch.

Days bled into each other, punctuated by the rhythmic slap of waves against the hull and the calls of unseen birds. Our mornings began with the first blush of dawn, a breathtaking symphony of color painting the sky. We'd gather on deck, mugs of steaming Tongan coffee thanks to Richard from Little Fish. It's awesome to watch as the islands transform from silhouettes into vibrant paradise.

I had only just finished reading David Lewis's book regarding the Exploration of the Pacific by the early peoples, of Tongan. This book is regaled with tales of the Lapita people, the intrepid voyagers who first settled these islands millennia ago. He spoke of their incredible navigational skills, guided by the stars and an innate connection to the sea. Their legacy resonated in the traditional double-hulled canoes we occasionally encountered in the Pacific, testaments to a seafaring heritage passed down through generations.

Our days were a delightful blend of activity and relaxation. We'd lower the anchor in secluded coves, the pristine beaches beckoning us with the promises of exploration. Beneath the surface some of the coral reefs teemed with life, a dazzling kaleidoscope of colours. Sadly others had taken the full brunt of the Hunga Tonga tsunami, huge sections of coral were simply destroyed, but everywhere the signs of new life.

Pangi  - Lifuka Island 

As we neared Pangi and Lifuka Island, a sense of anticipation grew in the air. The island is a centre for local government and our next Customs appointment. The largest island in the group was getting ready for the King to visit. Everything was being made ready, groups in song, others cleaning streets and erecting elaborate woven structures of flowers. Even with all this preparation the pace of life here was refreshingly slow, a world away from the frenetic energy of our everyday lives.

We arrived late in the day and did a quick scouting trip to find customs, food, and fuel for tomorrow and then just chilled out on the yacht. 

Anchored Off Pangi 

Our days at Pangi were short, provisions, customs clearance, and relaxing in the turquoise waters reflecting on what's next.

Safe Sailing and see you out there.

Regards Trev

For more information on Nuka'olofa the capital of TONGA: Click Here. 

For Customs information: Click Here