Antarctica
Groundhog day
The familiar view from the cockpit, the view you get from an open 60 sailing to Antarctica. Always cold, often wet, very wet
Antarctica is beautiful but deadly.
Why sail to Antarctica, really good question. The only answer I have, for the adventure. The sailing expedition was a quasi scientific trip, we were to install some sensors into Mawson Hut located in Commonwealth Bay Antarctic. Why was I going, I was second in command of the yacht and would lead land-based tours, I would also teach safe movement over the ice, using ropes, rescue techniques and maybe some ice climbing.
Mawson's hut has been there 100 years, it was never built to last so long and the ice will one day consume it. I have the opinion, Mawson's hut was a fantastic bit of old engineering that has survived about 100 years longer than even he expected. If you don't know who Mawson is, read some history, he is one hard ole dude, a legend.
Another reason to go is to stick it to the science wanker types, they seem to think Antarctica is their exclusive taxpayer-funded playground. "we don't want you expeditions types here, you will damage the delicate (purple and rainbow colored unicorn) environment". As you explain to those fools just how much damage they do every year with fuel spills, shit and piss dumped willy nilly and let's not forget machinery left to rot where it fails. Yes, Mr science we salute you.
So hell yes to a lean green Antarctic adventure, by sail nonetheless. If you want to feel like an ocean warrior spend some time bashing about in moving pack ice and 90 knot ocean storms, it will make you appreciate your latte when you're sitting in your cozy little cafe in the art district of Melbourne. That's only if you survive, at best I give 50% chance.
Commonwealth Bay
It's a short rum line sail, only 1600nm South from Hobart, what you encounter:
The worst and biggest sea
The worst weather, period, and
The worst ocean you can imagine
The trip home was even more interesting and a lot more challenging after being shipwrecked in the pack ice, we got bashed up pretty badly, when we finally escaped the pack ice.
We escaped with a banged-up hull and taking on lots of water, no working rudders and most of it missing, broken linkages, damaged steering cable, a damaged sail drive, no gas left, no working water maker, and very little water for 10 men. More issues than I care to recall without reaching for a stiff drink. This is on a yacht with no rum.
Lets not forget the five holes in the vessel, caused by being crushed in pack ice and beaten up pretty bad, we were still taking on water. The timber bungs kept most of it out. The leaks still kept the pumps busy. Yes, you read that correctly timber bungs, they do work. I still carry them on my yacht TinTin, if you sail so should you.
I became an expert in sailing a seriously damaged vessel and heavy weather sailing tactics on the return trip to Australia, in a vessel, a vessel that I expected may sink and kill us at any time.
We were trapped in the ice, it did considerable damage to the yacht, The vessel survived a beating that is hard to put in words. This is also why I now own a heavily built alloy yacht. We survived. But only just.
the skipper
Chris the skipper, in black, and myself discussing how the hell we our going to sail this sinking tub 1600nm sail back to Australia, I was Chris's sailing second in command and in charge of land based operations.
I had know Chris for over fifteen years, our time spent in the military. I was still serving at this time and teaching mountain and cold weather operations.
I had worked with Chris before, doing lots a crazy things, like parachuting into croc invested oceans at night, but this was our first journey on a sailing vessel together.
I had only recently sailed from Perth to Melbourne on my own yacht a Cheoy Lee Offshore 39, I should have learnt my lesson, that was also a tuff trip across the bottom of Australia.
Len the doc
Len was our Doctor on the trip, Len has a great sense of humour and trust me you needed one on this trip a really nice bloke.
Pete watch captain
Pete was one of the watch captains and now owns Blue Dolphin yacht charters and Whale watching tours.
The best whale Captain in Hervey Bay, Qld, Australia.
Pete took many of the Photos used on this page.
Dick and Bill
Dick AKA the tractor ambush, Bill "it will be ok"
Rob
Shit happens
Trev
I was also testing some cold weather clothing for the military, yep it worked except for the footwear as I ended up with trench foot and a little frostbite, I used expensive leather and gortex sea boots, massive fail, just buy white gumboots for a freezer and 2 pairs of wools socks.
about 5 layers
I was using mainly mountaineering and milspec equipment on the expedition, I found my gear was every bit as waterproof as the sailing gear, was also lighter. Mitts were essential, I used 1 pair wool touch gloves, 1 pair wool gloves army green, 1 pair wool inner mitts and gortex outer mitts
Leaving Tassie
Touching Ice
Navigating ice
Penguins
sneaking up on seals
water tight doors
I really grew to appreciate this design feature once we had holes in nearly every section of the yacht.
We spent a number of days trying to find a lead or gap through the pack ice, whole days spent motor sailing down a 5 mile wide ice lead the would end a a blocked passage. We would turn around and look the next one all the time the pack is moving and your hoping the gap you sailed down is still open on your return in several hours.
I several occasions we had complete white out conditions, navigating around ice bergs and looking for leads using the radar as best we could.
We followed this lead through the pack ice, the beam of light photographed at 0200hrs on a very cold morning was either a good or bad omen, it did lead us to the mainland.
Once through the pack ice we turned East and motored between the pack ice and along the Antarctic mainland for about 100nm, before we reached Commonwealth Bay. It had been amazing, flat beautiful, and awe-inspiring, not one sign of a building storm as we prepared the boat for land operations and other jobs like refilling the tanks.
Somedays are amazing
Boat jobs
Glad to be home
This photo is only a snapshot of the damage, we were safe, tied to Sandy Bay marina, time for lots of rum.
The Ice was Brutal
I'm sure the only reason we survived was that Alloy has some flex. The noise of this Alloy vessel being crushed will be with me for ever. I'm a little haunted by the yacht screaming in pain
Antarctica
"Beautiful but Deadly"